The magnificient Silver Chariot
surrounded by a sea of devotees
at Dato Keramat.
Resplendent and enchanting
in the slow dusk, the Silver
Chariot gleams before the
backdrop of the imposing
Meenakshi Sundaresvarar temple.
Smashing coconuts before the
chariot of the Lord.
Hooks weighted down by
nylon strings.
Some devotees, young and old,
in the never-ending procession.
One of the many colourful stalls
set up along Waterfall Road
for Thaipusam. |
In the temple, Muruga - the protector of the innocent - stood august
and majestic in the inner sanctum, arms akimbo. An endless flow of milk cascaded
from his crown and down his polished ebony image amid an air wafting with
chants, music and heavy sandalwood incense.
Here,
in the famous temple atop a small hill in Penang's lush Waterfall suburbia,
thousands of devotees end their journey on foot every year. After hours of
trekking from the various temples in George Town, the pilgrims ascend the
hill with a final inspired spurt of fulfilment and calmness, to release their
loads in the holy place as a realisation of their vows.
Some
600,000 devotees and tourists converged at Waterfall last January to celebrate
or watch the annual Hindu festival of Thaipusam. The lengthy stretch of road
leading to the area, shut completely to traffic, teemed with throngs of people
who were fringed on both sides by two lines of pandals or temporary stalls
that provided refreshments, vegetarian food and religious souvenirs.
The
Thaipusam tradition was brought to the Malay peninsula through the South
Indian diaspora during the 19th century. Ironically, the festival has since
evolved and grown so greatly in Malaysia and Singapore that it has now far
outsized celebrations, mostly unheard of, even in India.
In
fact the festivities in Penang have evolved to such an extent that they
assimilate distinctly local characteristics that would raise eyebrows in
India. For example, the celebrations have drawn a cosmopolitan following
of many non-Indians. One group of Chinese devotees was seen pulling a small
chariot of Kuan Yin, the Chinese goddess of mercy. Another group had actually
prepared an ornate chariot replete with giant images of Hindu gods such as
Shiva and Kali accompanied by the serene image of Kuan Yin.
But
in spite of the few inevitable socio-cultural oddities, Thaipusam is by and
large inundated with Hindu rites and rituals.
The
festival is however popularly known more for the acts of self-immolation
by devotees who skewer themselves with hooks and spears as penance. It is
unfortunate that such exotic spectacles have prevented many visitors from
being more exposed to the profound depths of angelic spirituality many devotees
demonstrate.
The
early morning of Thaipusam is arguably the finest time for visitors to experience
the purist side of the festival. The calm and tranquil march of devotees
bearing ceremonial milk-pots, coconuts and simple shoulder-kavadis in the
balmy hours is an arresting sight.
Mostly
clad in yellow and saffron, clean-shaven heads smeared with sandalwood paste,
the devotees walk along the road sans the boisterousness that dominates the
later hours of the day. The pilgrim procession passes a number of temples
along the Waterfall road before the ascent up to the famous hilltop temple.
The usually barren rain gutters along the hillside look like slender white
capillaries, flowing down with ceremonial milk offered at the temple above.
Further below, a whole river has turned into an amazing canal of milk.
The
festivities traditionally end on the evening after Thaipusam day, when the
impressive Silver Chariot bearing the image of Muruga, is slowly driven from
the Sri Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Temple in Waterfall on a long overnight
journey to the Natukottai Chettiar Temple in George Town.
The
chariot had in fact been earlier brought to the waterfall temple the morning
before Thaipusam, in what has become a customary beginning to the festivities.
It
is interesting to note that the yearly chariot procession during Thaipusam
has been held without fail since 1857. A wooden chariot was used for the
first 37 years until the silver chariot was brought from India in 1894; this
chariot has been used ever since.
The
episode of drawing the chariot back from the Waterfall temple lends an engaging
atmosphere of faith, devotion and piety. Hundreds of devotees flock peacefully
around the gleaming chariot, carrying trays of offerings - flowers, fruits,
betel-leaves, coconuts - amid undulating music of an Indian piper and his
drummer.
Little
children are lifted up to the idol in the chariot for priests to invoke the
deity's blessings; jasmine garlands passed along up to be placed on the idol;
wisps of incense smoke, fragrance of rosewater; camera flashes and chants.
All these amid a sea of devotion and equanimity.
As
the chariot, pulled by bulls, slowly lunges forward, a frenzy of coconut
smashing ensues before the sacred deity. Municipal council workers plunge
into disciplined action, zooming a pair of bobcats and compactor units to
clear the debris as the chariot moves on.
Afar
and nigh ahead, the endless peaceful waves of devotees wait patiently to
have their glimpses of the sacred idol of Muruga till the holy parade and
the festival come again next year. |
rom the top of the green hill, the endless string of devotees
dotting its way up the concrete steps seemed like a sacred procession of
silence.
