| This meticulously regimented
network was among the earliest parts of George Town planned under the
administration of Sir Francis Light, the English founder of Penang. The area
is hence now referred to as the "Francis Light Grid" - a rectangular network
bordered by Leith Street, Beach Street, Chulia Street and Pitt Street (now
Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling).
Streets within the grid were pertinently named to reflect
the period during which they were built. Names such as Market Street, King
Street, Queen Street and Penang Street - all now form the heart of Little
India - are still used today.
Heritage researcher and author Khoo Salma Nasution
notes that Muslim sailors and stevedores from south India lived along parts
of King Street which the Tamils call "Padavukara Tharuva" or "the Street
of Boatmen".
Market Street, which now forms the heart of the
Indian enclave, was called "Kadai Teru" or "Street of Shops". The British
called it "Chola Place" or "Little Madras". Several other Indian communities,
mainly merchants and traders, also arrived in large numbers over the years.
These included the Gujaratis, Punjabis, Malayalees and Telugus.
Many of these were traders who set up their businesses
within the grid, contributing to the area's throbbing cultural milieu. It
was in fact very common until only a few years ago, for folks to live on
the top floor of their shophouses while operating their businesses on the
ground floor.
According to Khoo, who is also Penang Heritage Trust
secretary, George Town was a popular stop for Indians on their way to work
in Kuala Lumpur and the rubber plantations in other parts of the peninsula.
Many however stayed on, contributing to the gradual establishment of a large
Indian community here.
The early part of this century saw two major Indian
village settlements sprouting up at Chulia Street, across the King Street
junction. Veteran Tamil writer Anthony Muthu, 70, remembers the childhood
days he spent at the two neighbouring villages of Kampung Yelai or "Village
of Leaves" and Kampung Poyelai or "Village of Tobacco".
"During the 30s, Tamil stage dramas were regularly
performed at an open area next to the villages, attracting large crowds,"
says Muthu, who also fondly remembers electric trams and passenger rickshaws,
more popularly then known as the jin-rickshaw, towed by Chinese runners with
towels on their shoulders.
The largest influx of Indians and their myriad trades
occurred during the early part of the twentieth century. The area then briefly
underwent a slight change during the Japanese occupation of the Second World
War, when economic activities lulled a bit. The Japanese presence was very
much felt in Little India. A few Japanese-owned shops were set up in China
Street and King Street. The shops were novelties then. Elderly residents
today still remember Japanese shopkeepers displaying dozens of small boxes
filled with toys that were sold for between a quarter cent and one cent.
A gradual incursion of modern trades, albeit run
by Indians, slowly seeped into the area during the next few decades, but
many of the traditional enterprises remained. Spice and onion traders also
featured prominently during the 40s and 50s. The streets used to be lined
with rows and rows of betelnuts and spices laid out to dry in the sun.
As development set in on the island, many traders
moved on to deal in other commodities while their offsprings turned to other
professions.
But perhaps the most pivotal sign - in true Penang
style - that the area needed to reckon with the country's rapid development
came sometime in the late 70s - the narrow streets of Little India were all
turned one-way.
Written by
Himanshu Bhatt |