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Preserving Penang's Islamic heritage

Feckless development and public apathy has resulted in only a handful of the elegant and historical homes of Penang Malays left standing. Two notable examples are the Syed Alatas Mansion on Armenian Street and the Segara Ninda, home of Ku Din Ku Meh, both privately owned today. According to heritage conservationists, the two buildings are good examples of upper-class Muslim residences of the 19th century, incorporating an eclectic mix of European, Indian and Malay cultural influences.

In its heyday, the Syed Alatas mansion hosted Muslim-related cultural events, one of which was the homegrown Boria, usually performed during Awal Muharram (or the Muslim new year). But most of all, the mansion served as home to both Syed Alatas and his son.

After it was abandoned, the once august dwelling fell from grace and into a state of disrepair. A great part of the wear and tear happened when the mansion was let out to a motley crew of Indian chettiars dealing with scrap metal and other discards, used timber dealers and even a kopitiam. They occupied the place from the 1930s right until 1993, when the Municipal Council (MPPP) took over the building. Working with French technical support, the Penang State Government and the MPPP with the backing of the Federal Government, launched the "Syed Alatas Mansion Heritage Development Project" into action.

In the effort to preserve the mansion and at the same time retain the Islamic/Malay significance of the Acheen Street community, the Malay Chamber of Commerce (the present owners) converted the building into the Penang Islamic Museum to house some very rare relics and also serve as an information centre. Items on display include a 17th century ceramic tile, mosque fittings over a hundred years old, labu (clay drinking vessels), batu giling (grinding stone), Arabic calligraphy and tapestries.

The displays are divided by theme - the Islam & Culture room for example, focuses on religious rituals and recreation. On display are implements for the circumcision ceremony, including a 'circumcision chair' although it is unlikely that such chairs are still in use today, as parents prefer to have the procedure done in a hospital, or if performed by a Tok Mudin (a circumciser), then the boy usually sits astride a banana trunk. In the same room, a mock Malay wedding ceremony is on show, complete with bride and groom outfits, merinjis air mawar sprinklers and fans. Posters in the room describe in detail other rituals.

Another room, called Islamic Personalities, pays tribute to the contributions of Malay leaders in the development and propagation of Islam in Penang, for example Sheik Omar Basheer and Sheikh Muhammad Tahir Jalaluddin.

A beduk (picture bottom left) – a long wooden drum used to sound the five prayer times - is on display at the entrance, right next to a replica of the Trengganu Inscription Stone. Historians believe that the Terengganu Inscription (Batu Bersurat Terengganu, picture bottom right) is proof that Islam came to Terengganu a hundred years before Melaka.


The Penang Islamic Museum
128, Armenian Street
Penang, Malaysia.

Written by Raja Abdul Razak

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Georgetown

Oeding-Erdel factory tour Click here for full story.

Preserving Penang's Islamic heritage. Click here for full story.

Segara Ninda – residence of Ku Din Ku Meh. Click here for full story.

Penang War Museum. Click here for full story.

P. Ramlee's birthplace & gallery. Click here for full story.

Sun Yat-Sen – changing China from Penang. Click here for full story.